In our store, we got two limited edition versions of this jacket,

- fit 673B, a denim jacket with a  NOS Belgian army woolen lining and red nylon lining for the sleeves. Only 60 pcs made!

- fit 673W, a full NOS Belgian army woolen jacket, in green, and the same red nylon lining for the sleeves. Only 50 pcs made!

We had a full size range of both jackets, now we only have 3 left! And as they are limited editions, it are the last ones.

If you like one of these jackets, get one now (together with our free shipping, they are a real steal!) :

- fit 673B, we have a size S and L left, yours for 279€.
-fit 673W,we have a size L left,yours for 325€.

User report fit 673B :

I myself got the denim edition, and it served me well during the extreme (for Benelux) cold we have had : at sub -10°C temperatures and only a shirt or cotton sweat underneath, my body never suffered from having cold… so this one became my favorite winter jacket… I’ve worn it every day for 2 months now without feeling boring or bored wearing it!
Below is how it looks like :

Some detail shots of all wrinkles and lines that are setting nicely :

And the characteristic Z-bar stitch (Z-bar = Z shaped motorcycle handlebar)

Who wouldn’t be proud of owning such a piece?

middle : our good friends Keith & Rob’s Belgian label EAT DUST, a no compromise jean  designed by two bikers! RRP : 189euro, available here.

right : our friend Dario, Mattheo & Luigi’s Italian label REDUX, a beautiful jean with an awful lot of attention to detail. RRP : 215euro, available here.

Without going into detail, click the image below to have a detailed view of the similarities/differences.

What’s also interesting is that those three brands have opted for a particular inseam construction :

As for the most popular model, I think there isn’t as they target a different audience… if it helps, we love all three of them, each for a specific reason which you have to make up yourself…

In my opinion jacket is so understated! From the late 1800′s all the way to the first half of the 20th Century, a dreaded future for french draftees and ruffians was to “get sent to Biribi.”

The label became stamped, as always is the case with MF® clothing, I only added our own ‘OKIYA) stamp (for now).

The back can be cinched, for a more fitted fit… Take note of the NOS prongle : it is the one with the two very sharp pins!

The real horn replacement buttons (7 in total).

A closer look at the fabic : NOS beige (unbleached) selfedge linen/cotton blend.

The term Biribi :

By mentioning Biribi, we are talking about prisons in Algeria and Morocco. Biribi was the solution chosen by the French government to tame hard headed rebels, anarchists and other misfits.
Youngsters with a misdemeanor police record, individuals who had tried to dodge the draft (common practice was to stick a rusty fork in your thigh to invalidate yourself…), or just had an issue with authority, ended up doing time under the blazing sun in the ol’ African French Colonies. Fun activities included breaking piles of hot rocks, building never ending roads, enduring constant humiliation such as the infamous crapaudine, but mainly learning the ropes for a future life in the underworld. Biribi made the tough tougher and buried the weak!

Biribi and other French colonies prisons disappeared in the mid 1950′s, after numerous testimonies of survivors had shaken public opinion, and international pressure had forced the government to change its penal system. The year 1972 marked the official dissolution of the last Bat’ d’Af’ unit.

The Bourgeron Biribi (or Prisoner blouse) is designed in constructed in Mister Freedom®’s atelier using NOS (New Old Stock) rolls of disparate vintage fabrics, mainly cotton/linen homespun style early french textiles. NOS vintage trims (exept for the buttons, which a replaced by horn ones) and single needle machine construction!
Early French bourgerons (military work dungarees) were often made of unbleached linen or linen/cotton blends, plain or HBT weave.

I took this piece in a Large (40), but I normally get MF stuff in a raw Medium, remembering that a Raw Medium doesn’t shrink to much using only quick rinses. I thought since this is NOS cotton/linen blend without knowledge how it behaves as well a being a particular style,  I needed a Large to get the desired Ol’ school fit I wanted.
First time ever for a MF® piece, I decided to hot soak and tumble dry the jacket, because it turned out to be on the big side. I just soaked it in the tub for about 30 mins using the hottest water I could get from the tap.
It shrank a fair bit, but nothing to be worried about! The tumble dryer it did make it a lot less stiff (very supple in fact) and drape nicer, which is good! I might cold soak it again in a water/starch mixture to get back that crispy feel…

REDUX Project :

The idea of the project arose from the need to perpetuate the unique characteristics of jeans, from material to production. The word REDUX means to restore or to return. REDUX is an original Italian project for a limited production of blue jeans. REDUX is entirely for men, though Nora already fell in love with a particular model (type 7) whereby I must admit that the fit is nice!.

The special nature of the project lies in the high quality of a genuine product which will stand the test of time. So, what makes an authentic pair of jeans? According to our friends Matteo, Dario & Luigi, who are the folks behind REDUX in fact, an authentic pair of jeans must have an artistic integrity of its elements and a commitment to the past!. Our three friends have a big original vintage clothing archive, where they get a slice of history in an original classic where style and character meet. In this archive they’ll find inspiration as well as authenticity, not meaning that they copy or replicate vintage items. REDUX has it’s own style, using period correct hardware and construction techniques. another important aspect which influences their products are quality, quality of life which you is expressed in their work. But simplicity and continuity also lie at the heart of REDUX.

Simply put, the styles are inspired by the tradition of workwear and the classic 5p jean. The union of thes two concepts creates a product unique in its style…

Anatomy of a REDUX jean :

Triple needle stitching in areas where most stress occurs.

Handmade bartacks

Pocket bags with internal chevron reinforcement, deep and comfortable.

Chain stitches for greater elasticity.

Personalised hitorical correct buttons.

Original CAM LOCK self locking zipper.

Authentic historical correct rivets.

Attention for detail internally.

Hand numbered (removable tag which you can attach on a certificate of ownership.

The fits (available at OKIYA store) :

Type 1, available here.

✔ 14,5oz Japanese selvage denim
✔ Regular Straight fit
✔ 3 needle stitching in the stress points (reinforcement)
✔ Back pockets with internal chevron reinforcement
✔ Original Can Lock zip
✔ Deep and comfortable front pockets

Type 4, available here.

✔ 13oz Japanese selvage denim
✔ Anti Straight fit
✔ Fully riveted
✔ 3 needle stitching in the stress points (reinforcement)
✔ Back pockets with internal chevron reinforcement
✔ Button fly
✔ Deep and comfortable front pockets

Type 7, available here.

✔ 13oz Japanese selvage denim
✔ Slim Fit
✔ 3 needle stitching in the stress points (reinforcement)
✔ Back pockets with internal chevron reinforcement
✔ Button fly
✔ Deep and comfortable front pockets

Wesco constructs these boots on anatomically shaped lasts expressly designed for producing comfortable, high quality work boots.

The foot area is lined by a smooth inner leather layer which contributes to the strength and comfort of the boot. This extra layer of leather complements the careful fit and excellent arch support.  The leather lining is thicker than the outer leather in many other boots.  The outer leather in these boots is 7 oz full grain leather. The boot’s comfort is further enhanced by a removable cushioned foot liner like those found in high quality athletic shoes. I am surprised when they discover how comfortable these sturdy boots are!
The stitchdown construction helps keep this boot drier during wet weather and keeps out dust and dirt which can shorten the life of boots. In stitchdown construction, the inside layer of leather is secured under the foot while the outer layer of leather is folded out and sewn to the sole. This technically challenging construction method yields a sturdier boot which is less likely to be damaged during its life.

Specifications :
11″ one buckle configuration
Heavy (7 Ounce / 2.8mm) Oil Tanned Black Leather
Foot lined with heavy (4.5 Oz / 1.8mm) glove leather
StitchDown Sole Construction
Hard Toe
Sturdy Steel Shank
Heavy Duty, 9 Iron Leather Mid sole and Insole
OrthoLite® ventilated & cushioned insoles with moisture wicking Drilex® footbed
Vibram® #430 Mini Lug Soles
Nickel buckles
Soles double stitched with heavy duty white thread
Uppers stitched with brown dacron thread

As you can see the emphasis is strongly on the leather and quality of construct.

The leathers that form the basis of the organizer’s group buys are some of the best in the world! The quality of construct? Well, let’s just say the Japanese workshops aren’t the end all when it comes to leather goods. The organizer’s aim was and is to have the construct and hardware last as long as the leather does, and very importantly, to look good over time as the leather does.
It is a combination of traditional methods and materials into a denim-compatible belt that is the challenge here, and that is the organizer’s main contribution towards to the belt itself.
Some initial information regarding this project:
Charlie at Equus Leather (a traditional British saddlery workshop in Northumberland, UK) made this belt.
Charlie has been in the saddlery trade since 1995, and his house-style is hand-stitched English bridle dress-belts.
http://www.equusleather.co.uk/

The project has been possible through Michael Chung (I urge to check out his blog); who first had contact with them through Baker’s tannery

Michael decided the project belt would be made from a natural bridle butt at 6mm thick or more.
In fact, it is a special order hide from Baker’s tannery, and due to cattle industry regulations re: lifespan of the beasts before slaughter, it is rare for a hide to have this thickness.

The details:
- 1.5″ width,

- double prong buckle in solid brass,

- hand-stitched buckle fold with two horizontal primary rows along the edges and two extra rows in the centre,
- extra heavy-duty Irish linen threads,
- no keeper,
- slant edge tip,

Another detail is that Charlie and Michael have decided to leave the edges as a raw cut, instead of having burnishing on it.

This belt will be serving me for many years and it will be used, meaning besides conditioning I won’t be cautious or baby it… In my opinion, it is meant to be worn hard, as it is meant to be to age beautifully :-)